Personalised Fitted Sleeve Garments

Blocks devised by Kathleen Kinder

You can add your measurements for the points shown on these blocks. You will need to allow some ease so that the garment is comfortable.

From working your tension swatch, you can use the block diagrams to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to ensure a perfect fit for your own garments.

The measurements given below are body measurements plus ease where it applies. The total body ease allowed here is 5cm (but it can be more or less).

Using the blocks
The three dimensional body is shown in only two dimensions on the block. Measurements taken around the body eg bust, hip, wrist etc are halved on the diagram. Also note that only half the armhole is shown on the body.

The body diagrams to help you take your measurements show where to measure the armscye EL. Our definition of armscye is the measurement from the armpit over the outside edge of the shoulder ball and back again. This will be at a slight diagonal - see diagram. It should be a close but not tight fit. This measurement is important as it helps you design and section the fitted sleevehead.

Measurements to take for back and front

  • AH: Back length
  • BB: Half of the total bust or chest measurement including the 5 cm ease, measured at the widest part
  • FAF: Back neck on straight, usually about 1/3 of back shoulder measurement. Scoop out about 1.5 to 2cm, at the widest for a better fit
  • A to EE: Shoulder depth is a perpendicular line, usually 2 to 2.5 cm (adult)
  • EE: Back shoulder measurement is from shoulder ball to shoulder ball - ask a friend to measure this!
  • EL: Depth of armhole is usually half the length of the armscye, since the total armscye measurement is around the outside of the shoulder ball and back again.
  • BLE: Armhole length including ease. The ease is added to both sides of the garment, front and back but the diagram shows half the amount. Note that the concave armhole curve from B straightens out within quarter of the total armhole length BLE.
  • X to line BZB: lowest point on front neck to start of armhole shaping. You will need to translate this into rows to know where the front neck shaping begins.
  • AX: Depth of neck, usually 7.5 to 9cm (adult). Because a child's head is larger in proportion to his/her body, it is a good idea to allow a generous neck depth, 6 to 7cm or a little more on an older child. A generous neck depth avoids the need for neck openings.
  • YZ: Welt which can be ribbing, garter stitch or hem. This welt depth is part of total length to armhole.
  • BY: Measurement from above welt to armhole (converted into rows).

Measurements to take for sleeve

  • EP: Total length from shoulder ball to wrist - ask a friend to measure this!
  • JEJ: The measurement JEJ is the perimeter of the sleeve head and equals the total length of the armscye. It includes ½ the ease allowed for the garment's front and back, so ¼ of the garment's total ease is added at each side of the sleeve. The length of JEJ also equals the length of the whole armhole BLELB. Half the armhole BLE shown above equals half the perimeter of the sleeve head EJ. Refer to the body diagrams to check where the armscye is measured.
  • EW: Depth of sleeve head. EW should be a generous 2/3 of EL since EJ is half the total armscye plus ¼ of the total ease. This allows for a perfect edge to edge fit. Designing the sleeve head is dealt with separately.
  • JWJ: Widest part of sleeve, plus ½ ease for the whole garment (back and front), ¼ added to each side at J and J.
  • WP: True measurement for underarm seam including welt. To calculate WP, subtract the sleeve cap depth EW from the total EP length from shoulder ball to wrist.
  • ST: Welt.
  • WQ: True underarm seam measurement excluding welt. To calculate WQ, substract welt ST from true underarm seam WP.
  • JS: Length of the diagonal from underarm J to above the welt S. It is not a true measurement because stitches on the diagonal edge elongate where there are regular increases or decreases. It is best worked out with the line sum or magic formula with the row complement from under arm J to the top of welt S.

Changes to the sleeve head

The curved sleeve head can be larger for a fuller fit, if required. More details are given in the section on designing a fitted sleeve head