Semi Fitted Sleeve

Blocks devised by Kathleen Kinder

For an accurate individual fit it is important to take exact measurements for the points shown and use those to calculate the rows and stitches.

Key to measurements

  • EE Shoulder ball to shoulder ball
  • E to line BZB Depth of armhole
  • JRRJ sleeve head fits comfortable into whole of armhole BRERB
  • JEJ widest part of sleeve
  • RB=RJ measurement of the diagonal

Variation on the dropped shoulder line block

The diagram shows the outline of the original dropped shoulder line block by a dotted black line. You can work out the shaping for the semi-fitted sleeve as follows:

  • Draw a pencil sketch of the back/front and sleeve in a notebook and add essential measurements.
  • Subtract the shoulder ball to shoulder ball measurement EE from BB (½ total body width including ease)
  • Divide your answer by 2 so you get the measurement for each armhole/sleeve top. That answer is the cut out between the vertical lines running from E and B but the cut out is shaped within the depth of the armhold or sleeve top. ERB shows the perimeter line.
  • Looking at the diagrams, visualize matching J on the sleeve to B on the body and then rotate the sleeve by 90° anticlockwise. You will see that the sleeve fits into the body neatly at R.
  • The raglan diagonal can be between 1/3 and 2/5 depth of armhole. If needs be, draw the full scale sleeve head and armhole cut out on paper to ensure the measurements are correct.
  • Calculate the rows and stitches using your tension swatch.
  • Note that in knitting, the diagonals will form curves.